Paiya- A Tree that Unites the Earthly Realm with the Netherworld

The strikingly captivating Paiya or wild cherry tree, to be found on the slopes of the snowy mountains of the Gori Valley in Uttarakhand, is not only known for its extraordinary beauty but also symbolizes the deep connection between nature and culture. The pink blossoms that bloom in winter, the sparkling green leaves, and the incredible wood hold special significance in rural life.

The Paiya tree continues to be a living part of the stories and traditions of the mountain culture. This tree, which is said to connect the Earthly realm and the netherworld, is deeply embedded in the lives of the people of the Uttarakhand Himalaya, weaving the lives of humans and the natural together with a single thread.

Read this story in Hindi

In the heart of malla (upper) Sarmoli village, located on the slope of the Khaliya Mountain stands a clutch of trees that include a massive Deodar tree, a symbol of the village’s pride, grace, and grandeur, visible even from afar. Beneath these trees is a chabutara (circular platform) for sitting. Whether it’s children or adults, our village folk or visiting tourist, all seem to pause at this spot or to seek relief from the bright mountain sun and to rest their weary bodies. They are drawn to this grand Deodar tree, but there’s something else about this place that makes them stay.

Right next to the Deodar tree is another tree, located near the main pathway used by the villagers, whether it’s the steep climb from talla (lower) Sarmoli along the cc (cement concrete) path or the gentler ascent from the Munsiari market via the road leading into the village, this tree stands as a silent witness to everyone passing by. I would like to introduce you to this tree.

This is the Paiya tree. The Paiya tree, along with the Deodar tree and the platform, stands by the roadside, and from here, the slope below reveals a clear view of the houses and fields of our village. Right in front and across the valley, the snow-covered peaks of Panchachuli massif stand tall, glistening in the bright sunlight. If you look slightly to the right from the chabutara, you’ll often see Anusuya Dadi working in her fields. Today, she was digging up potatoes and also cutting grass. Sweating under the scorching sun, she paused for a bit and sipped on a cup of tea. I couldn’t help but wonder, how could she drink hot tea in the hot sun!

I often wondered why people kept looking at this tree. After all, it’s just a tree, isn’t it? I decided to sit under the Paiya tree myself for several days. The chirping of the birds perched on its branches filled the air, and as they moved, the leaves rustled gently, creating a soothing sound. The birds, nestled amidst the shiny green leaves, painting a beautiful picture. With the breeze, a sweet and refreshing fragrance from the tree’s pink flowers wafted through the air. I took a deep breath, and when I closed my eyes, I could hear the sounds of the insects, which brought a smile to my face. Sitting under the tree, I felt relief from the heat and an overwhelming sense of peace within. So many being were attracted to this one tree.

Come spring, the Nyoli (Great Barbet) came and began eating Paiya’s fruits, making its distinctive loud call as it did so:
“Tyoo, Tyoo, Tyoo…”

I wondered, what other unique qualities might this tree have? What relationships exist between living beings and this tree?

The Paiya tree has its own personality and is a part of our everyday lives. Its branches hold the memories of our childhood, and its roots preserve the stories of our ancestors. I invite you to come closer to this Paiya tree so that you too can understand its uniqueness.

A Tale Of The Tree That Unites Two Realms

It is said that the Paiya tree did not exist on Earth during Satyug (considered the era of truth and righteousness), but only in the Patal Lok (the netherworld). Kans, the warrior King of Kanstoli and the uncle of Lord Krishna, ordered Vasudev (Krishna’s father) to bring the Paiya tree to Earth for him to worship. He threatened that if Vasudev, whom he had imprisoned at that time, failed to bring the Paiya, he would be sentenced to death.

Vasudev searched the entire Earth for the Paiya tree but couldn’t find it anywhere. Ultimately, he decided to return with white Tusari (Debregesia) leaves as a substitute.

At that moment, Krishna appeared and said, “Father, what are you carrying? Paiya doesn’t exist on Earth; it is in Patal Lok, where you cannot go. I will help you myself.”

Krishna decided to journey to Patal Lok. To do so, he had to travel through the navel of Earth, but a Dharma Sheela (a large sacred rock) blocked the path. Krishna moved the rock with just one finger, but the movement led to the release of a poisonous gas from within the Earth. The gas spread like mist, and Krishna passed through layers of Earth—soil, stone, metal (silver), and gold—until he finally reached Patal Lok.

In Patal Lok, Krishna arrived at the Paiya tree located in the Naglok. He sought the indicators of the black Sheshnag’s arrival (the protector of the Paiya) through his divine playfulness, captivating Sheshnag’s five daughters. The serpent women told him that their mother’s arrival was marked by echoes and tremors in Patal Lok. At that moment, the Sheshnag roared and arrived and on sensing a human presence, became enraged. Krishna hid in the Paiya tree and called upon his foster uncle, Garuda (an eagle), for help. Garuda arrived in Patal Lok with his 1,600 companions, which frightened Sheshnag, causing her to transform into a ghiraal  (a small lizard-like grass skink from the Scincidae family) and hide around Krishna’s neck.

Meanwhile, a blind Garuda companion mistook Krishna for an enemy and struck him, rendering him unconscious. By the time Krishna regained consciousness, Sheshnag had hidden in the roots of the tree. Krishna challenged her, and Sheshnag promised to emerge on the condition that her enemies would retreat. At Krishna’s request, the Garudas left.

Krishna and Kaali nag agreed to a contest: Kaali nag would drop all the leaves of the tree with her venom, and Krishna would revive the tree to its full greenery. If Kaali nag won, Krishna would not take the Paiya to Earth. But she lost. This is why even today, the Paiya tree remains lush and green in the month of Kartik (mid-October) when all the other trees shed their leaves.

Krishna rode on Kaali nag and brought the Paiya tree to Earth, handing it over to Vasudev in Kansatoli. Some Paiya trees also reached the Dev Lok (the divine realm), where it was worshipped with grandeur by the Panchanam deity and Krishna.

And as the folklore goes, even today the Paiya tree is regarded as sacred in the Himalayan mountains and given special honour during the Khwadai Puja (Alaknath Puja), where Panchanam, Kalsin, and Golu Devta (deities) are invited for worship.

A Symbol Of Sacredness

In Uttarakhand, the Paiya tree is considered highly sacred, and many folk beliefs are associated with it. The leaves of the Paiya tree are used in rituals such as worship ceremonies, weddings, housewarming ceremonies, the sacred thread ceremony, and night vigils.

Bacchi Singh Chiral, a resident of Chauna village (approximately 7 km from Munsiari) shares that this worship is not practiced throughout Chauna village but exclusively by the people of Chiral Patti (a caste). Chiral Patti comprises three Raths (castes)—Kala Patti, Gwana Patti, and Rata Patti. Bacchi Singh mentions that the Khwadai Puja has been performed for generations. This puja is held at intervals of five, seven, nine, or twelve years. Notably, it is never performed during the Krishna Paksha (waning moon) but only during the Shukla Paksha (waxing moon). The puja begins only after determining an auspicious date and time.

The puja starts with the gathering of villagers, the pandit (priest who conducts the ritual), and the Dhami (the priest’s assistant). The ceremony begins with the worship of the Paiya tree. Branches of the Banj (oak) tree are also used, and a Nort (vigil) is organized. During the Nort, a temporary temple is built using the leaves of the Paiya tree along with other materials. People play the Hudka (an instrument made from animal hide) past midnight till the wee hours of the morning, hoping that Sidhu, Ramola and Narsingh Devta (deities) will incarnate in someone’s body and grace the ritual with their presence.

On the second day, at an auspicious time, the tradition of inviting the Paiya tree is performed. For this, a person becomes possessed by the Garud devtaa (spirit of the deity). This person climbs the Paiya tree and breaks a branch, bringing it down. The branch is then placed in a palanquin and taken to the temple. At the temple, a Kunol (circular ring) is made using the branch of the Paiya tree and the leaves of the Buransh (Rhododendron). Inside this ring, a pile of food called a Seekh—containing rice, fruits, flowers, poori, and bada (dishes)—is placed. This is known as the “Khwadai k aahaar.” After the ritual is complete, the filled Seekh is distributed as a blessing to the daughters and sisters of the village, as well as all the invitees.

The Earthly Life Of The Paiya

My childhood friends and I used to pluck the Paiya’s leaves and lick them with our tongues. Why? Because bees leave behind honey on its leaves. If you touch the Paiya’s leaves, you’ll notice they are very sticky. Though the leaves are generally not eaten, during winter, when green fodder is scarce, animals accustomed to it feed on them as fodder.

The Paiya tree can be found across the mountains of Kumaon and Garhwal in Uttarakhand and can grow into a very large tree. Kamla Chachi, got married and came to Sarmoli from Bageshwar district call the Paiya tree ‘Poniy’. In Hindi, the Paiya tree is called Padam, and in English, it is referred to as the Himalayan Wild Cherry. This tree belongs to the Rosaceae family, and its scientific name is Prunus cerasoides. The tree is mainly found at an altitude of 1200 to 2400 meters (3900-7900 feet), and can reach up to a height of 30 meters or 98 feet. The branches of the Paiya tree spread in all directions, providing dense shade that cools the ground. The trunks of the older trees are very thick and weathered, reflecting their age and strength, standing as a quiet witness to countless seasons.

The Paiya tree’s flower blooms in in October-November when no other tree are in flower. Its light pink petals are very delicate and soft, so much so that they can wither or break with even the slightest touch. The most special thing about Paiya’s flowers is that they are very fragrant, and their scent spreads far and wide. The tree’s fragrance wafts across the air even before I get close. When the Paiya flowers bloom, a beautiful pink shade dons the branches of the entire tree. From a distance, this delicate pink shade unmistakably marks the presence of the Paiya blossoms.

As the mountain air turns colder, the leaves of the Paiya tree completely fall off. Leaf shedding begins at the end of October. The special thing about this is that as they fall, the leaves first gradually change to a light yellow and brown colour before they fall. New leaves emerge in the months of December and January and then take on their deep green and shiny form.

The Paiya fruits turn red by the months of April-May. Initially, these fruits are green in colour, then gradually turn yellow, orange, and finally become tomato-like red. In the month of May, the entire tree is laden with fruits. As a child I used to pluck and eat a lot of these fruits with my friends. Their taste is a unique mix of sour, sweet, and astringent, which makes your eyes shut tightly, and your tongue touches the roof of your mouth, making a “ta” sound. The seed inside the fruit is slightly large, and the fruit itself is about the size of a pea, so eating just one fruit doesn’t feel very satisfying.

The seeds of Paiya do not germinate just by sowing them directly. The propagation of the seed can only occur through bird droppings. When birds eat the fruit and it passes through its gut and then the seed is excreted in their droppings, it grows wherever it falls. The type of soil also plays an important role in this process. The seeds of the Paiya tree can also be germinated in nurseries, but they require constant care. Even in nurseries, only those Paiya seeds sprout that are collected from bird droppings.

Perhaps it is this unique relationship between the tree and the birds that adds to its charm. I am slowly beginning to understand why people stop by the Paiya tree. The beauty of the red fruits amidst the green leaves, the constant chirping and fluttering of birds, the beautiful pink flowers, and the leave’s vivid changing colour– this tree is a delight in every season. Each time I find myself near it, I seem to lose track of time. This tree, while being a natural wonder, is also a part of our history and culture.

Paiya In Our Lives

In September, when the Gajyu (a type of fodder grass) dries up, it is cut and made into haystacks, with a branch of the Paiya tree filled with leaves placed on top. Earlier when the roof of houses were made of grass thatch, a Paiya branch would be placed at the ridge. Our ancestors were dependent on and respected natural resources, and it is our responsibility to carry these customs forward.

The Paiya tree is regarded as a sacred tree in our mountain communities. During wedding ceremonies, a Kalash (sacred vessel) is prepared with a leafy branch of Paiya, symbolizing strength and prosperity in the couple’s new life together. The traditional welcome gate, is beautifully decorated with Paiya branches, but nowadays, the practise of using plastic decorations adorn gates has become more common.

There are notable differences between the two types of wedding gates. A gate made from Paiya leaves is natural, environmentally friendly, fragrant, and visually appealing. It adds a special touch to the wedding as it carries traditional and cultural significance. Moreover, it can later be repurposed into compost. On the other hand, plastic gates are cheaper, easily available, longer-lasting, and require less maintenance. However, the waste generated from plastic gates is often discarded in mountains and other natural areas, leading to the degradation of these pristine landscapes.

The Paiya tree has become an integral part of many aspects of our daily lives. For instance, the wood from the Paiya tree is used by blacksmiths to create charcoal which is then used to sharpen tools like knives, axes, and other implements.

Paiya wood is never used for cooking or heating because its fire burns extremely hot.

My grandmother says, “If people used this wood for cooking, their utensils would melt.”

Additionally, sickle handles (darati) are made using Paiya wood, which also holds significance in rituals and religious ceremonies. In the village, new-bornsmade to sleep in a dalia (a special basket) and a sickle with the handle crafted from Paiya wood  is placed at the head of this basket to protect children and ward off evil spirits.

In the mountains, it is said that if someone dies an untimely death, a Jagaran (vigil) is held, during which branches with Paiya leaves are used. The branches of the Paiya tree are also considered sacred and are used as drumsticks in musical instruments like the damho and nagare (traditional drums) played during religious ceremonies.

A Captivating Refuge

I love sitting beneath this tree, where I can immerse myself in the joy of spotting and identifying different bird species. The juicy fruits of the Paiya tree attract many colorful birds. The Yellow-billed Blue Magpie (Lampunchi) is the most frequent visitor here, along with Bulbuls, Mynas, and the Oriental White-eye. It is the perfect spot for any bird enthusiast.

The Paiya tree doesn’t just captivate humans and birds; it also attracts animals. Langurs, in particular, are very fond of the tree. When the tree begins to bloom, large groups of langurs gather to feast on its fresh green leaves. Additionally, many village dogs and cats enjoy resting in its shade.

While writing this story, I realized why people pause by this tree and gaze at it with admiration. Building a connection with this tree revealed its role in the life cycle of the people in my village. It became clear to me how many stories intertwine with it—from birth, then childhood to old age, this tree has witnessed and will continue to witness it all. Perhaps sitting under its shade introduces people to the myriad tales of the village, evoking a sense of a long journey shared by both villagers and visitors alike.

As I gazed at the Paiya tree, I couldn’t help but wonder how far its roots must stretch. It stands steadfast even in the harshest of conditions, firmly anchoring itself. In adverse weather, the Paiya tree remains resilient and thrives. When winter strips other trees of their leaves, the Paiya tree begins to bloom. I aspire to be as strong as this tree, ready to face the challenges in my life with determination. Perhaps this is why people are drawn to sit under its shade for so long—to feel it’s quiet strength and draw inspiration from it.